Install remote power switch for inverter so it will not be necessary to remove access panel & switch it on. An extra switch was provided on the power control panel for this purpose, so the internal wiring will need to be extended to that.

As long as I'm futzing with the inverter I may as well spin it 180° & remount it! On the original installation it was oriented so the end with the receptacles was facing out of the electrical compartment for easy access. After the first time I switched over to inverted power with the A/C inadvertently left on; fortunately all three fuses immediately blew to protect the inverter! Unfortunately, those are located on the opposite end from the plugs & extremely difficult to change by feel alone.

Since it’s more likely I be changing fuses than plugging in/unplugging the feed to the trailer’s 120VAC circuits, I plan to reverse the inverter mounting to accomplish this.

We picked up a couple more OEM reading lights to match those installed above the bed in our Tango. I want to mount them over the sofa in a similar layout (towards either end) to supplement/replace the center-mounted dome light, which is too bright & dispersed for reading.

Our jackknife sofa is not very comfortable for me – the back cushion is too vertical & seat is too flat. While it may be fine for a West Point graduate I guess my slouching style is better suited for a recliner! Until I can figure out a way to replace the sofa with a pair of those I’m stuck with it, so I need to make some adjustments.

As a temporary measure I stuck a piece of 2x4 under the front of seat cushion to raise it slightly & change that angle; but the back is still too upright. I hope there’s a way I can reposition some mounting bolts or a pivot point to change this.

The paint on the tongue & front cross member is fading pretty quickly now and I noticed some rusty spots elsewhere on the frame. In fact whole sections of the "powder coated for a lifetime of protection” finish are peeling off, especially along the bottom edge of the X-member! I’ve had very good luck with Rust-Oleum Professional High Performance Protective Enamel I used on the stabilizer jack cross members so plan to repaint everything with that.

I installed a series of high-strength magnets on the Kitchen drawer stack to keep them closed while traveling. I need to follow up & install more on the adjacent trash can pull-out & drawer above; as well as drawers in the bathroom wardrobe.

When we picked up our new Tango, during the walk around I noticed there was no San-T-Flush system, which was supposed to be part of the "Advantage Package". Further investigation revealed that all the internal plumbing was in place, but the factory had forgot the last step of installing the exterior water connection! A quick discussion with my dealer & Ray Found from Pacific Coachworks got the necessary parts shipped to me in a few days – complete with hardware & caulking! But since I have a Camco® Dual Flush™ Pro reverse-flush valve I really haven’t gotten around to installing the parts!

The ground clearance on our 276 seems adequate enough, but I did notice while installing the SeeLevel tank gauges that the clearance between the fresh water tank & the axles is extremely tight – like ¼” on the forward axle! It wouldn’t take much of a jolt to crack the tank if I hit a pothole just right or backed over a branch that shifted that axle slightly! Besides that, I wasn’t particularly impressed with the thin bubble-wrap insulation so I’d like to improve that with some thicker material such as rigid foam board which would require at least 3-4” of free space in that area. The easiest way this can be accomplished would be to “flip” or reattach the axles so the they sit under the springs rather than on top as they do now. Many trailers are configured this way & in fact it appears most of the other Tango models are as well – not really sure why ours is such a low rider!

I got a quote from a local RV repair shop to perform this task, which was $275 + parts. Dexter makes a kit with new spring pads & some hardware that makes this a fairly simple job. Just need a flat, hard surface to get the trailer up on jackstands & perform the work. While I'm at it I may replace the stock equalizers with a set of E-Z-Flex rubber-cushioned versions. That should improve the ride & the included wet bolts would help with routine maintenance!

Along with flipping the axles this step should help extending our camping season! The bubble-wrap insulation & reliance on radiant heat from the furnace ducting to keep the tanks warm is pretty skimpy IMHO; so a rigid foam board such as Owens Corning Foamular or Rmax Thermasheath could service as both a protective water barrier as well as insulation.

The factory ran an RG-6 coaxial cable from the outside connection near the rear left corner to the Winegard RV-7042 wall plate near the TV in the main cabin; which also connects to the Winegard Sensar® Amplified Antenna on the roof and the TV outlet in the bedroom. But because the wall plate supplies 12-v. power to the antenna for the amplifier & includes a two-way splitter for 2nd TV outlet it will trash any satellite signal coming in on the same wire. This, combined with the need to route the signal to a satellite receiver before the TV make running a dedicated satellite cable a necessity!

My plan is to install a second exterior RV CATV receptacle next to the existing CATV input and run a dedicated RG-6 Quad-shielded cable directly to a 4-port wallplate that will replace the Winegard model. The other three ports will run to 1) the CATV input, 2) the bedroom TV, & 3) the Winegard Sensar antenna. From there I can run short RG-6 patch cords to the video switchbox, which includes a 12-v. power supply for the antenna.

Fortunately there's an access panel for the shower plumbing that should let me reach the exterior wall where the input receptacles are mounted, so I can snake a cable from there up inside a wall (next to a bunch of other wires) to the roof truss area. I'll then try to fish above the ceiling over to the wallplate opening - if that doesn’t work I'll run the cable underneath the floor & come up inside the wardrobe in the bathroom.

I replaced all the TV's in our home with Samsung LCD HDTV models recently and have a spare 20" Toshiba LCD TV with a built-in DVD player that was in our bedroom. This seems like the perfect choice to replace the 15" HDTV that came with the trailer and at the same time move it down on the wall to a more comfortable viewing angle. Ironically we actually bought this TV for use in our previous trailer, but it was too big so we stuck it in the bedroom (our first in there) and have really enjoyed having it for news & such! I plan to fabricate a raised-panel door to cover the old TV cavity & pick up some extra storage!

Sharp-eyed readers may note I previously spent some time to modify the smaller TV mounting and plan to reuse that Peerless mount in it's intended manner.